Posts from the ‘flooring’ Category

Oil Furnace Repair (Not recommended for most folks!)

Please note: While I feel comfortable doing most of my own work there are some things which are inherently dangerous, and working on any combustible-based heater or furnace is one of them. I do not recommend a homeowner attempt these repairs or ones like them. I expressly deny any liability from damages should one attempt these repairs or ones like them. This blog in its entirety is for entertainment and information purposes only, and no guarantee or warranty is implied or expressed on the contents herein as to the correctness, fitness, adaptability or usability of the ideas, contents or directions set forth herein. 

Okay, for obvious reasons, I needed to get that out of the way.  All right, here’s the problem.

Several years ago I had a flood which inundated the crawlspace of my house and most of my garage. It was devastating in many ways. I had no flood insurance and tons of things were hopelessly damaged. Chief of them was my old old furnace.

This furnace is what is known as a floor furnace. It literally sits in the floor in a central location of the house and warm air reaches most places in the house quite easily. It has but one duct, and a blower forces fan over the hot heat exchanger and up into the room. Given the house is only 1000 square feet, it works quite well.  The entire furnace, duct, heat exchanger, blower and burner are all house in one 24″ by 36″ compact unit with only a 2-wire thermostat, fuel and 110 volt power hookups.

Over time, I learned how to reset the primary control and bleed the line when it ran out of fuel. It functioned well in the 2 years I had it prior to the flood.

Some people might grimace at the thought of oil heat. Messy! Yucky! Expensive! Not clean burning! I’ve heard it all.

The truth is, oil is one of the most efficient fuels out there. It contains more BTU’s per dollar than any other fuel, and runs hotter than natural gas or propane, meaning it doesn’t have to run as much. Right now it runs about once an hour, set at 68 degrees, for roughly five minutes, with the outside ambient temp at 50.  That’s pretty darn efficient!

This is what it looks like…

I got a few paint splatters on it the grate so I need to do a thorough cleaning at some point.  Anyway, with the unit non-functional, I crawled under there and assessed the damage. Right away, I could see the control board wasn’t working. There ‘s a green light that flashes if the unit isn’t working, but that light was out even though I had the thermostat all the way up. The transformer was warm so I knew it was getting power. So, I ordered a new one.  It cost $69.00 plus 10.00 shipping.

Two weeks ago I went under there to replace that control. It relays the signal from the thermostat to turn on the burner. It worked, sort of, once I replaced the control. But it would not stay running. The motor was nearly frozen and took a long time to free up, with me patiently moving the fan back and forth until it moved, but it was clear, this unit was toast.

New control board being installed.

Ok, then, I started assembling what I needed. First, a new flue pipe. I purchased all I needed for $70.00 at Lowes, including elbows, 4-foot lengths and a male coupler.

I found one problem: the collar where the flue pipe attaches was severely rusted. I suspect this was less a result of the flood than rain coming down the chimney. (My next project will be a good chimney cap!)  Nonetheless, I had serious doubts as to whether this was a viable project.

I removed the old pieces of flue pipe and inspected. The firebox or heat exchanger was actually in decent shape, made of heavy-gauge steel which had little rust except some surface rust. The collar was a different story, though; the bottom third was gone.

I decided to try something, unsure if it would work. I took the connecting male coupler, normally used for joining two pieces of female flue pipe and cut a 2 inch slit in it with my tin snips. This allowed it to narrow slightly. I then inserted it in the damaged collar which was a very tight fit: the collar is also a male fitting designed for the female end to slide over it. So being the same size (except where I slit it) it wasn’t going to go in easily. The slit enabled me to get it in and started, and I took a block of wood and a hammer and gently hammered it in until it would go no further.  I tried to pull it out and could not, it was in there very securely! I felt if there was any chance of this repair to leak, I would abandon the project. But once I examined it, I was very confident it would not leak at all, nor pop loose.  Then I assembled the rest of the flue pipe. I didn’t get good pics of those, but here’s one I was trying to pop together earlier…

Assembling flue pipe requires pushing down while aligning the ends so they slide in together, then pushing back to round once they pop together

So then it was time to buy a new burner. I looked on eBay and found a nice used one (used only 2 years, per the seller, who is an HVAC guy) which looked perfect. I bought it for 159.99 with free shipping.

It arrived 6 days later and I was ready to get rolling. I gathered the tools and worked my way under there. Important note: ALWAYS wear a face mask under an old house. No telling what you will breathe in!

Three bolts hold the old unit on, on the back where the black flange is. It also requires disconnecting the 110v line and turning off the valve on the fuel tank and disconnecting the fuel line.

Old burner. Beckett Type A, AF

This is the old one, above.  I got it out and examine it, actually in good shape save for the motor.

The new one had arrived, a more modern Beckett Model AFG, very similar. And here’s where it gets complicated. I have never done this kind of work before but I did a lot of online reading and studying and asking some questions.

The most important thing was this: never, ever alter the manufacturer’s settings. These things can run on a variety of settings but that depends on the furnace manufacturer’s construction specifications. I examined mine and found the air adjustment on the new one was precisely the same as the old one. But one big item was the nozzle and blast tube, where the fire actually shoots out.  These were as different as night and day.

The new one, as it arrived (below) had a 3.75 inch blast tube and .60 nozzle. The old one had a .70 hollow nozzle and a 7 inch blast tube. I couldn’t tell the blast tube length until I removed it.

Almost new Beckett AFG burner

So the first thing I did was remove the blast tubes. Just four screws and it slides off. Inside the igniter and nozzle are housed.  They are all one unit, and detach easily.

So I made the swap, and thus my new burner was now configured like the old one.  Here’s what it looks like after the swap.

New burner with old blast tube attached.

Though the old blast tube looked rusty, it was just light surface rust. It had no defects or issues. So I assembled the entire thing and it was ready to go.

One last issue was the fitting for the fuel line. The old line had a straight fitting but the new one was L shaped, and pointing straight up, meaning I couldn’t just screw the line in. Ok, a quick trip to NAPA and I had a one-foot length of 3/8ths  inch tubing and a new compression fitting.

Making compression fittings is pretty easy, you just cut the length of pipe with a pipe cutter, then place in the flaring tool. Leave about an eighth of an inch above the tool and use the flarer to expand it. It’s important to put your compression nut on the pipe before you flare it, otherwise there’s no way to get it on.

Flaring the pipe

Then it’s ready to attach. I did this on both ends and added a connecting piece so I could screw the old line into the connector, the connector into the new one-foot line, and the new line could be bent at a 90-degree angle to meet the connector on the new burner.

Flared end with nut.

Finished fitting

Then it was time to attach it to the burner. This was done quickly and it was time to get back under and start assembling everything.

Replacing the burner, once all the details were done, is nothing difficult. Simply make sure you have a good or new gasket, place it in place and bolt it on, then make your connections.

This is the hole where the old one was removed. As seen here, the white gasket is in great shape.

Then I was a matter of getting it in place, securing the 110 v line, attaching the thermostat (2-wire, white and red, and color coded to it’s impossible to make a mistake, and attaching the fuel line.

So finally, I got it in place. I turned the power back on, started the fuel running again, checked the flue pipe to make sure it was still seated, and crawled back under.

Moment of truth.

I couldn’t get it to fire, but I was ready for that. No doubt air got in the line when I opened it, so it would be necessary to bleed it first. No sweat. Second attempt. I open the valve, let the line bleed and heard a nice roar, and it caught.  I turned the bleeder valve shut again and waited, and listened. The furnace continued to run and within a minute, the blower kicked in, scattering dust, leaves and my cats all over the house! No kidding, my cats had never heard it run so it took them a day to realize this thing wasn’t going to hurt them!

The installed unit is shown here, with the green light on above the red button, and the new copper line coming out of the left side.

And lastly, from the inside, a view from the topside. There is a window on the heat exhanger which allows HVAC guys to evaluate the flame and I opened it to see how it looked. Nice hot fire blowing into the firebox.

Fire in the hole!

There was only one scary moment or two. After I got it running, I smelled a pretty strong smoky smell. I wasn’t sure what it was, so I shut it off. I did smell fumes, like diesel fumes, a bit, but it didn’t smell quite like it, either. I checked to see if the fumes were going up the chimney and they were, quite a strong flow. I shut it off for the day, and tried it again the next morning. Still some fumes but I noticed a bit of smoke on the firebox. Then it hit me, it wasn’t fuel or fumes, but dust and grime from five years of non-use burning off. I’d vacuumed and cleaned it before firing, but the vacuum could only reach a few areas, not all. After three days, the smells were gone and it’s just been nice, warm air blowing out.

I’m totally happy.  🙂

Old total:                                                                                          $369.96

New total: (including $600 for yard work earlier)         $918.99

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Starting again… Some HVAC work

It’s been almost 10 months since I’ve posted here. I did get moved into the house and have had a number of time issues crop up which necessitated putting off work on the house.  A few other issues have cropped up as well, but the biggest one is money.

As I mentioned previously, I’m on disability, so it takes some time to save up and tackle jobs. One thing I did not really factor was that living here was going to be more expensive than I budgeted for. This is the first time I have lived here on my own since I was approved for disability. So, economically, it was a whole new ball game. And it’s been tough.

Nonetheless, I was able to work a few odd jobs here and there and get caught up on a few bills. Medical bills are the ones that kill me, pun intended.

So, as cold weather has arrived and I take stock of my needs, here is what I have done, and still need to do.

1. Landscaping. This is a huge issue, as the previous owners planted all manner of bushes and shrubs and a ton of plants and vines. It was so overgrown this summer I knew I could never take care of it myself. So I hired two guys to come with chainsaws and trimmers and $600 later I had all the bushes around the house cut down and removed, and the hedges bordering the property cut and trimmed. But I have yet to do anything about putting new bushes or mulch in place, so that is upcoming…

2. HVAC work. More on this below.

3. Kitchen and bath. The kitchen needs all new paint and a new floor, and I would love to redo the cabinets or at least get new counters.  The bath needs to be completely gutted and redone.

4. Back porch. Roof is leaking and must be replaced, including rafters. It’s a screened porch, and I would love to convert it to a bedroom since it has a full foundation, but that will be quite costly.

5. Dining room. This was orginally the back porch for the house, closed in many years ago. It has ugly paneling for both walls and roof. I want to gut this also and sheetrock it and paint it.  And the laundry room is off to the side of this room and also needs to be gutted.  There is ample room for a toilet and sink there so a nice half bath/laundry room combo makes sense.

That’s where I am.

Currently, I have been working on the old oil furnace that sits in the middle of the house. I’d never seen one like this, just a single large floor vent that blows the air straight up into the living room.  But it gave a warm, marvelous heat, and nothing felt so good on that first cold morning of winter when it kicked on for the first time. But it was partially submerged in a flood a few years ago, leaving it useless. In the meantime, I bought a used heat pump/AC to use. Works great, and I installed it myself, but it’s mega expensive to operate. My power bill jumps from about 96.00 a month in winter to about $225.00. So, I wanted to get that furnace up and running again, if possible.

Old oil furnace, minus grate. 

I went under there a few weeks ago to assess the damage. The flue pipe was completely rusted away, and the primary control board was toast. I replaced the board and got it to fire, briefly. So I then assembled a new flue pipe and screwed and attached the sections together, and fired it up…

And it would not work. Even with new fuel. At times the flame gun’s blower wouldn’t even turn. And after multiple attempts, the unit locked up completely, telling me either the motor or the pump had broken entirely.

I have ordered a good used burner with a new nozzle and a new pump assembly  ready to hook up and install. As soon as it comes, I will post pics and update….

Home Repair on a Budget: Days Thirty-One to Thirty Three.

It’s time to break out the bubbly! No, it’s not New Year’s yet, but at long last, I can move into the house again. The last job, installing and painting the quarter-rounds is done. This is a big day for me, something I’ve waited for for a long time. I have much, much more to do, mind you, but at this point, at least, I can breathe a bit easier; the hardest, toughest job is done and I can move back in and tackle the rest of the house while I’m living there.

Let’s see what I have so far…

This is the living room extension, I had just started and had this corner done; you can see the small pieces I cut off on the floor.

Above is the back bedroom, and below is the living room at the front door and coat closet.

Like every job in this house, it has had a few difficulties. One of them is a perplexing filing job some worker did to mate the baseboards to the door frames. The baseboards were apparently wider than the boards used in the door frames, so they were filed down at the ends so they wouldn’t protrude. In some cases this was more pronounced than others, but it meant laying the shoe molding (quarter-rounds) was a headache. Here’s how I dealt with it:

This shows how the baseboard was filed down just before it ends in contact with the door frame, and making a straight line to the door is impossible. So, I cut a slight angle on the end piece of quarter round and nailed it in place.

These pics were taken before I put the paint on, so it looks “unfinished” but my phone was dead when I did the painting, and now the paint has been applied and the lines and nail holes are mostly filled in. You can also see a lot of sawdust on the top of the baseboard; I had to go around with a vacuum and damp rag prior to painting the quarter-rounds. I also had a lot of gouges from the hammer and the sander to deal with, plus some stain which splashed up when applying that to the floor, so I basically gave the baseboards another coat of paint while I was at it.

I will go back and take my expensive Nikon camera to shoot the house in more detail as soon as I do some final cleaning and touch-ups.

I’m still looking for those missing receipts; I will have to guesstimate if I can’t find them!

Home Repair on a Budget: Days Twenty-Six to Thirty

A big milestone was hit last night: the floors are finally complete. All that remains now for the living room, hallway and bedrooms is to install and paint quarter-round molding and touch up the paint here and there.

After my last post, I got the sander returned and floors cleaned. As one can imagine, they have to be very clean in doing this kind of work. I began by sweeping, followed by a very thorough vacuuming. Then I went over everything with a damp (not wet) mop to catch any remaining bits of dust and debris.

Then it was time to lay on the stain. There’s very much a technique to doing it right. I used Minwax Red Mahogany stain, as I wanted a darker floor. For two reasons: first, this floor is very old and has lots of damaged spots in it. By using a darker stain, these damaged places don’t jump out quite as much. And secondly, I wanted a contrast to the bright white trim and relatively light walls.

In the pic above, you can see the application of the stain. I applied it with a brush, then immediately wiped it with a rag. You can also apply it with a rag. Either way, it’s a messy, sloppy job. You want to wear gloves!

One problem ensued. This stuff advertises a 6-8 hour dry time. It was actually closer to 5 days! A lot of factors were probably at work, most prominently were likely the cold weather and the humidity.  On day four I noticed it was mostly dry and on the fifth day, I could walk on it. I wiped it down again with a dry cloth to pick up any powdery residue from the stain.

Then it was time for the polyurethane. It is very important to get the proper polyurethane. If you use an oil-based stain (as the Minwax was) it makes common sense to use an oil-based poly. This was one of the learned lessons of this job. I bought a water-based poly, and made one stroke of the brush with it, and it immediately wanted to bead up instead of laying smooth. I wiped it off and went to the store and got the proper kind. (The only reason I got that kind was because they were out of the Minwax brand at the time.) But I got the Minwax Clear Gloss poly, which is oil-based.

This stuff is very messy to work with. It has the consistency of baby oil mixed with Mrs. Butterworth’s syrup!

It also has a tendency to bubble up.

If you look closely you can see a lot of white spots in the photo. These are bubbles. I am not sure why this happens, but it is most prominent in the sections where the grain is dark. It may be reacting to the stain in the wood, and the stain is absorbed more in the dark sections of the grain than the lighter ones. This is heart of pine wood, by the way. I did notice a caution on the can of stain about using certain kinds of finish with that color of stain, something about the pigment is incompatible with some finishes. But this finish was specifically recommended when using it. So, I’m not sure.

But the bubbles happen no matter where you are applying it. It takes a very slow, easy stroke of the brush. I was tempted to use a roller brush, as I’ve heard people do, but I have used this stuff before (and also got bubbles before) so I was leery of doing that.

It took a total of twelve hours to apply it, moving slowly, room by room, slowly backing my way to the kitchen entrance and the back door.

Surprisingly, this stuff dried in no time. It was dry in about 4 hours, enough to walk on.  Then, of course, a second coat is necessary. The wood likes to drink it up in places, so it looks a bit splotchy on the first application. So another marathon twelve-hour application was done last night. Let’s see how it looks…

This is the back bedroom.  You can see the reflections of the windows in on the floor.

And above is the front bedroom.

And above we see the short hallway.

Finally, below, we see the living room and living room extension.

And that’s it. This was a long, tough, and at times agonizing job. Expensive, too. I didn’t even keep track of all the money I spent this month, so now I have to go and dig up my receipts and total it all up. I would estimate a total of over $100.00 on stain, brushes and polyurethane.

And it’s not over yet. Take a look at this:

This looks like the wood was gouged in some way, but it’s insect damage. At first I was thinking it was termite damage from long ago, but the channels where it’s eaten up are too wide, leading me to think it was some kind of wood-boring beetle. At some point I will have to replace this board entirely. I’m unsure how or when; I will have to locate a duplicate three-inch tongue and groove floor-board and then cut this one out. For now, I just took the bucket of polyurethane and poured it in, filling the spaces and making it hard. I might get an area rug to cover it as it is unfortunately in the middle of the floor!

Lastly, here is my next project, once I get the quarter-rounds cut and installed:

This is the old oil furnace for the house. The blower is on the left (air filter sits directly on top of it) and the burner and firebox are on the right; air blows around it and straight up.  Not surprisingly, it produces a nice, warm heat (oil is a fantastic heat fuel; it has more BTU’s per dollar than any other fuel) but the flood I had a few years ago damaged the circuit board. I have the new one now and I’m planning to install it soon.

I will add the figures as soon as I have located my receipts…

Home Repair on a Budget: Day Twenty-three to Twenty-five

After the Thanksgiving holiday layoff, I got paid again and resumed work. This kind of hurt, because the funds I had designated for it went partially to the rental of the sander that didn’t work, and then I spent money for gas to get home on.

So, I had to rent a second sander and purchase paper.

Anyway, I didn’t get it picked up until 5:00 pm on Monday, and spent all evening and all night sanding the floors. Let’s take a look.

As you can see, this sander, using a 20-grit paper, cut quickly through the old finish and got right to the wood. It is a lot more labor intensive. With an orbital sander, the unit can stay in one place without too much danger of gouging the wood. Not so one of these. You absolutely must keep it moving at all times, as the drum will quickly gouge out a trough in the wood.

A few problems ensued, natually!

For some odd reason three of the sheets of paper just shredded. I know I got all the nails and things off the floor, so this had me puzzled. After those three sheets, I had no further problems.

Except for the dust collector. I noticed the bag wasn’t filling with sawdust, so I had take apart the unit to get to the clog.

This happened using the 20-grit paper; it really rips up a lot of floor in a short time, so the sawdust is heavy and sticky with old varnish. (Safety note: NEVER leave piles of sawdust in a closed bag, they have a tendency to go up in spontaneous combustion!) I just shook the sawdust out in the yard.

Finally, I got all the floors sanded. Here’s what it looked like then.

I am not sure why there is a darker area from the wall to about 3 feet out. This machine operates by turning it on and walking backward as you sand, so you have about 3 feet you don’t get on the first pass, and then you have to turn around and go the opposite way. Perhaps it has something to do with the direction of the grain; trees grow upward, so perhaps going in the opposite direction creates a different “cut.” No other way to do it, though.

Obviously noticeable is a larger gap where the sander couldn’t reach, about 4 inches wide.

To get to that I used my trusty belt sander, with a 50-grit coarse paper.

I could have rented an edger, but as seen here, this does a great job. I went out to Wal-Mart last night to round up all the 50-grit paper they had in stock.

And here’s the wall after sanding the edges.

The quarter-round molding will cover up the remaining lines, for the most part. And the stain I plan to use will hide the leftover, visible areas if all goes according to plan.

Old total: $284.83

New total $369.96 (cost of renting sander plus paper)

Home Repair on a Budget: Day Twenty-Two

The day I was looking forward to for a long time turned into a disaster!

All the main painting work was done, the trim finished, everything moved out and floors swept and vacuumed. So, at 9:00 am I arrived at the rental place and picked up the floor sander, and a bunch of sandpaper.

By 12:00 noon I had everything ready and fired up the sander.

The unit is extremely heavy, but operates very smoothly.

But no sooner had I started than I realized I had a significant problem.

This area has been sanded four times in the picture, and you can see here, absolutely nothing is accomplished. The sander could not even touch this old stuff. This is not the cheap stuff you buy today that’s just pressed sawdust and glue with a thin layer of veneer on top. This is solid wood, one inch thick, with a heavy-duty finish on it.

So, I went out to the building to get my belt sander, and tried that.

The belt sander, using a medium 80-grit paper, was able to cut right through to the wood. So, that made it clear, I’ll need to do the floors with a drum sander, which is an entirely different kind of work. It’s a lot more labor intensive, but it’s something I have done before and it’s difficult to use,  so at least I know what I’m dealing with.

Thanksgiving is upon us, so that’s all the work until after the holiday.

Happy Thanksgiving to all!

 

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